vB Easy Archive - How often do we have to change our oil filter?

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How often do we have to change our oil filter?
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Posted by: plumers

How often do we have to change our oil filter?

I'm just wondering why Jiffylube always replace my oil filter at every oil change. Is it necessary?

Posted by: Monkeylala

It's just standard practice to change out the filter during an oil change. The recommendation is every three months or whatever-thousand miles. I've gone a year or so between changes, but to each their own.

Posted by: OffTheHorseCEO

better to spend 12 max on a filter a few hundred or thousand on an engine repair.

and the filter comes off during an oil change anyways, so why not put a new one there while youre at it

o btw, the filter stores some oil when the car is off, so if you change the oil and dont even remove the filter, then you still got some old oil flowing around with the new. makes sense to switch the filter huh? or at least drain it

Posted by: OffTheHorseCEO

plumers is kartu your xbox live gamertag, if so i think i may have played with you before

it was either
OneBigRod
Painuser
or
Smoten

Posted by: plumers

@OffTheHorseCEO :: I don't have XBOX. Sorry, must've been other dude!

Posted by: plumers

I have another question. Is there any significant differences between synthetic and regular oil??? Does that actually makes my engine runs longer???

I've been using this Pennzoil High Milleage oil, recommended by jiffylube.

Posted by: buhdussy

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumers

I have another question. Is there any significant differences between synthetic and regular oil??? Does that actually makes my engine runs longer???

I've been using this Pennzoil High Milleage oil, recommended by jiffylube.

Synthetic oils usually last longer, sometimes they have life up to 15,000 miles. Synthectic oil does a better job of keeping the metals lubricated while the engine is off. That means that start ups wont be as hard on the engine. Now Even if you do run synthetic, still change the filter about every 3,000 miles. When you go to change the filter, just add about a half a quart, or whatever amount you lost by pulling the filter. Filters still get just as dirty with synthetics.

Posted by: mau108

running
Castrol Syntec 0w30 in my honda prelude (alot of people go whoa!) but its an awesome oil, it costs a bit more but I can feel the difference between the semisenthitc the previous owner was using.

Oh and the Castrol Syntec 0w30 (only this one) is made in germany and is used in porches and beemers. Its the only synthetic oil castrol makes that is pure synthetic, all others are class III semis.

Regarding filters, OEM filter is the way to go aslong as its not made by FRAM. Hondas are made by fram, but I pick up the s2000 filter which is made in japan and is pretty reputable filter. If you dont drive a honda, my only other suggestion is the NAPA Gold oil filter which is made by PIX.

I did my last oil change after 8k, im pushing 10k cuz the oil was still good. Oh and this is Kilometers not miles

Posted by: chrix

Quote:

Originally Posted by buhdussy

Now Even if you do run synthetic, still change the filter about every 3,000 miles. When you go to change the filter, just add about a half a quart, or whatever amount you lost by pulling the filter. Filters still get just as dirty with synthetics.

wouldnt that be messy?

Posted by: plumers

Quote:

Originally Posted by mau108

running
Castrol Syntec 0w30 in my honda prelude (alot of people go whoa!) but its an awesome oil, it costs a bit more but I can feel the difference between the semisenthitc the previous owner was using.

Oh and the Castrol Syntec 0w30 (only this one) is made in germany and is used in porches and beemers. Its the only synthetic oil castrol makes that is pure synthetic, all others are class III semis.

Regarding filters, OEM filter is the way to go aslong as its not made by FRAM. Hondas are made by fram, but I pick up the s2000 filter which is made in japan and is pretty reputable filter. If you dont drive a honda, my only other suggestion is the NAPA Gold oil filter which is made by PIX.

I did my last oil change after 8k, im pushing 10k cuz the oil was still good. Oh and this is Kilometers not miles

I drive a Honda Accord with V6 engine in it. I'm not sure what kind of filter they put in, jiffylube does all that. But I'm planning to have my next oil change at Honda dealer or maybe other place that I can trust. Jiffylube sometimes use cheap local products for my car (before I put K&N filter, they used to replace my air filter made by some cheap materials that lasts only 10K miles), I just want my car performs like real japanese car

.

Do you change oil by yourself or you give trust to somebody else?

Does that s2000 filter fits my Accord with V6?

What's semisynthetic?? is it the ones that I'm using right now, pennzoil high milleage oil?

Posted by: bembol

Quote:

Originally Posted by mau108

I also use Castrol German 0W-30 Syntec on my '02 Acura RSX...I love it...no burning, much smoother than Mobil 1 5W-30...!!!

I use K&N filter and DIY every 5k/km...I'm actually changing it on Thursday

To answer the question...you don't have to change the filter at every oil change...you can get away with chaning it every other but oil filters are cheap $5-20...this is the heart of your vehicle

Posted by: Bonka

^ ^ ^

That's pretty good. RSX's are known to drink oil.

I change mine every 5,000kms. I use the OEM on the Nissan; haven't decided which one I'll use for the Ford.

It's OK to use the Fram (or cheap) filters but I wouldn't trust them for long drain intervals. I'm sure they hold out fine for 5,000kms. However, a good filter will also give you good oil pressure flow.

As for synthetic oils, Mobil-1 5w30 is probably the thinnest 5 weight oil I know. It's a quality synthetic but some engines do burn and the engine sounds louder because of it's thin viscosity. I'm switching brands because of the extra noise I get with it.

Posted by: B0000rt

My father's '89 Caddy specifically says in the owners manual that 710 filter change is every other oil change. Wierd eh?

Posted by: plumers

what do you guys mean by louder noise? is it like the engine noise you get when you rev at high RPM?

how about burning thing, does that means overheating?

Posted by: Bonka

At idle it was louder.

Most engines do use a little oil. It's normal but some people find that they use a little more oil (or started using oil) when using Mobil-1. I haven't had a problem with oil consumption though with M1, however..

Posted by: WoNGsTeR

honestly if ur car is not a fast car like a v6 or rsx for exp.. and its only like a regular civic lx or a accent for example.. just stick with regular oil.. there no much of diff.. and ur just wasting ur money..... fram is ok.. i use that.. as long as u dont use the low end fram... ur fine...

Posted by: plumers

I think i'd just give a little shot for synthetic oil on my next oil change. It would be either that Castrol 0W or Pennzoil from Jiffylube, just hope my car would runs a little faster and protected from troubles like engine knocking, etc. About the filter, I'll look for the ones that is better, I want that japanese s2000 filter. Thanks for all helps!!!

Posted by: buhdussy

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumers

I think i'd just give a little shot for synthetic oil on my next oil change. It would be either that Castrol 0W or Pennzoil from Jiffylube, just hope my car would runs a little faster and protected from troubles like engine knocking, etc. About the filter, I'll look for the ones that is better, I want that japanese s2000 filter. Thanks for all helps!!!

It's not going to make your car faster. You would use the same Viscosity, it would just be more durable to thermal breakdown.

Posted by: buhdussy

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrix

wouldnt that be messy?

How so? Everytime you change an oil filter, oil left over in the filter spills out. I guess you could have an oil change place do it if you dont want to get under the car with a drain pan. Oil does not keep pouring out from the filter adapter if there is oil in the pan, filters are located above the oil level most if the time.

Posted by: bembol

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumers

What do you drive again? Don't switch because you think it will make it faster...!!!

I can't stop you from doing it but atleast DIY...how much does Jiffy charges...up here shops/dealers charge around $70

As for Oil Filters...I recommend HEMP (JDM), Mobil 1 and K&N...around $15 CAN Every oil chainge, I also use Red Line's Fuel System Cleaner...!!!

btw, isn't Engine Knocking caused by using a lower octane than youerOEM recommends...???

Posted by: plumers

Oops!! I made a mistake. I didn't mean to make it faster (how much more speed I can get from my Honda anyway), but I was going to say to get my car runs a little longer with less problems. Sorry for that little typo.

Is it true that OEM oils (from dealers) makes my engine runs longer and better since they are manufactured by the car maker and meets all the standards??? Are they really manufactured by the car manufacturers??

Posted by: jafo_18301

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumers

Oops!! I made a mistake. I didn't mean to make it faster (how much more speed I can get from my Honda anyway), but I was going to say to get my car runs a little longer with less problems. Sorry for that little typo.

Is it true that OEM oils (from dealers) makes my engine runs longer and better since they are manufactured by the car maker and meets all the standards??? Are they really manufactured by the car manufacturers??

I don't believe that car manufacturers produce their own oil. They usually use a brand that they get a good price on. When I had my M3, the only oil that it could use was Castrol Syntec b/c it came in the 10W60 weight that was crucial for that engine. I am not sure what my Maserati uses but it is changed by Ferrari and I'm sure they won't skimp on the car's bloodline. Besides, my oil changes for that car are $260 US.

JAFO

Posted by: buhdussy

^^ Kind of like how Porsches, corvettes and vipers all come from the factory with Mobil 1, and thats what they strongly reccomend to use when changing oil.

Posted by: mau108

Honda does not manufacturer its own oil.

In the CRV we use Honda OEM filter(the fat one, they now changed to the narrow one) and Castrol GTX 5w30.

One thing thoe, if you decide to switch over to synthetic, keep it that way and is not recommended that you go back to normal oil.

Oh and I do my oil changes on my own, dads and mechanic and has trained me to do my oil changes, tranny oil what not....and Part Source has Castrol Syntec 0w30 for 7.19, org price is 7.99.

Posted by: mplswaltar

Change it every 3500 miles with a high quality mobile 1 filter or OEM. Fram uses cheap cardboard in its filters.

oh and did you know that 0w30 is a flushing oil? we use that to flush out all the previous oil and gunk in the engine, and never run it for more than 15 seconds. just an FYI that you might as pour water into your oil, because 0w30 provides NO protection when your engine gets past 135 degrees F (reached within 10 seconds of car being started)

really only reason to use 0w30 or what not, is if you drive in -40 degree weather, because the oil is so thin, it can circulate the engine faster and easier on startup.

lower grade =cold weather
higher grade = hot weather

Honda recomends 5w20 for newer hondas and the 96-00 d16y8. Most imports run around 5w30, and others may do 10w30. Sometimes the manufacture changes the grade of oil reccomended so you may want to check online or call them, to see what grade you should put in.

Posted by: mplswaltar

Oh and make sure you change the PCV valve at EVERY oil change, dont skip out on this one either, just as important as changing the filter

Posted by: plumers

Last time I went to dealers for service, they told me about Honda OEM fluids (oils, tranny fluids, even coolant). The service advisor also told me that it's better for my engine because it is manufactured to match the engine's specification.

Temperature here in CA are pretty much warm, no less than 60 degrees (I'm talking at night

) and can reached up to 110 degrees in summer (no need to warm up the car

). Lower grade is definitely a no no for my car.

How can I figure if my filter is FRAM or not??? Do Honda dealers use FRAM filters?? Where is oil filter located anyway?

What's a PCV Valve??

Posted by: mau108

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplswaltar

Oh and make sure you change the PCV valve at EVERY oil change, dont skip out on this one either, just as important as changing the filter

wtf are you smoking man?

no one changes their pcv valve every oil change, that'd be an expensive oil change! 30 bucks for pcv valve plus oil and filter.

Your insane man, I wouldnt let you touch my car. Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and read my brotha read!

Dont give this poor guy false info cuz your not educated on this topic!

No one changes their PCV valve every oil change, there is no need too. Every 50k is ok but not needed.

Posted by: Monkeylala

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumers

Where is oil filter located anyway?

What's a PCV Valve??

It might be easier and cheaper just to pay the thirty bucks to Jiffy Lube and let them take care of the oil change.

Posted by: plumers

I just had my car serviced for Valve set replacement Port Polish drilling, because EGR ports are clogged. What caused those problems???

Posted by: Monkeylala

It means you're a troll.

Posted by: WoNGsTeR

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monkeylala

It means you're a troll.

???? why are you posting that?

Posted by: Bonka

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumers

I just had my car serviced for Valve set replacement Port Polish drilling, because EGR ports are clogged. What caused those problems???

Exhaust gasses pass through that valve and routed back into the combustion chamber. The air is re-used as it is much hotter than intake air thus making the engine run a little more efficient.

Carbon eventually builds up and clogs the valves. Usually you can clean them when you're failing inspection or you have idle issues.

Posted by: mau108

Usually you just replace the PCV valve but the EGR valve is cleaned.

And ya like Bonka stated you usually notice its clogged when you fail emissions.

Posted by: plumers

I haven't done any emission tests yet. Maybe next year, CA emission test is every two years and I bought the car last year. I just had some sort of idle and starting problems lately. Finally I just found out why my car accelerates heavier than other cars.

Anyways, Is there anyway to keep them clean? Is it true that sometimes I have to drive in high RPM range (put the gear in 2nd or L if possible) to clear anything that can cause clogging valves??

Posted by: mau108

no thats a myth, hard to keep it clean cuz it just takes the waste engine produces and sends it back into recirilation (its an environmental thing).

Idle problems could be caused by Spark Plugs (need replacing possibly), wires have lower or higher then usualy resistance (again needs replacing possibly), egr valve clogged, air filter is dirty etc....

There are soo much that can cause the car to have idle problems. Check out accord clubs (i believe you have an accord) post in their forums, see what they have to say in regards to your specific car.

Hondas its usually those things i have stated.

Posted by: mplswaltar

Quote:

Originally Posted by mau108

PCV valve is $2.59 why wouldnt you change it every single oil change. If you know anything about cars you would probably change this in between oil changes too you retard. (cyber uppercuts to the jaw) Positive crankcase valve gets clogged you may blow a seal or an oil pan gasket. Get more gas milliage, better idle and throttle response. I just changed mine and it fixed my idle problems, its an easy cheap insureance to keep your air filter clean and your engine running efficient. I dare you to tell people not to change it often, because THAT would be bad advice for a 5 minute, $2 tuneup that may save your engine, and save you more money on gas

Posted by: mplswaltar

again your wrong, giving out false info. On hondas the EGR is probably one of the last things to go, your IACV and FITV are the main culprits for idle issues. The PCV is the TOP of the list. seafoam your intake manifold on both sides, change your PCV valve 20 miles after that along with your oil filter to a HAMP filter. Then remove your IACV and clean that and if you want block off the FITV because if that gets clogged it will create a vacuum leak and cause all sorts of idle problems when the car is warm. PCV valve is the easiest and CHEAPEST thing to do to your car for preventive maintaince, and it solves quite a few idle and gas millieage issues, and gives you back some power.

Posted by: mau108

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplswaltar

Sorry bud, got my pcv valves and fuel filters mixed up lol (changed it at the same time so went and checked the invoice) price tag on a pcv valve here in canada is 10 bucks.

But there still isnt a need to change it all the time. Oh and speaking of fuel filters, many say you dont need to change it for the life of the car, WRONG! I changed em both on my prelude and crv, and the cars ran much smoother (especially the CRV as it gets regular vs my lude which gets premium).

Posted by: plumers

I went to Honda dealer and they dilled the EGR, clean intake manifold, and change the valve sets. Here’s some explaination from the dealer

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y2...rs/Dsc00061.jpg

Does jiffy lube or any express oil change provides PCV Valve replacement??? Or I have to go to dealer to get that replaced??

Posted by: plumers

Quote:

Originally Posted by mau108

But there still isnt a need to change it all the time. Oh and speaking of fuel filters, many say you dont need to change it for the life of the car, WRONG! I changed em both on my prelude and crv, and the cars ran much smoother (especially the CRV as it gets regular vs my lude which gets premium).

Is it an expensive fix??

I remembered my mom had to replace her BMW's fuel filter (I'm 85% sure about this, I might be mistaken with other parts) and it cost her a lot that she decided to trade her bimmer with Avalon.

Posted by: mau108

lol the filter is 30 bucks, the labour depends on what car. On the CRV and the civics i know for sure their in such an easy location it takes (took me 15 minutes to replace it). On the prelude its soo way under that it took me 3 hours

Open your hood and look for something that looks like a black cyilnder, its usually near the firewall.

Posted by: mplswaltar

its cool yea the fuel filter isnt a biggie, its really easy to change however. Should be around $30 for it but for 1st timers i would take it to the dealership, not even valvoline or most places that "state" they can change your fuel filter could do my civic! which is the easiest car to swap out filters on! take it to the dealer so you want have to worry about any crimped fuel lines or leaks. I change mine everytime i change my oil just because i drive my car harder than normal. Yea your right you still need to change it because having a clogged filter could mean a lean condition, which is BAD

Posted by: mau108

if you decide to do it on your own, google or find a helms manual for your car, read on it, one piece of advice!

A. let the car cool down
B. just before you replace the filter, open the gas cap let the air escape and then close it.

and the rest is somewhat simple

Posted by: B0000rt

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplswaltar

its cool yea the fuel filter isnt a biggie, its really easy to change however. Should be around $30 for it but for 1st timers i would take it to the dealership, not even valvoline or most places that "state" they can change your fuel filter could do my civic! which is the easiest car to swap out filters on! take it to the dealer so you want have to worry about any crimped fuel lines or leaks. I change mine everytime i change my oil just because i drive my car harder than normal. Yea your right you still need to change it because having a clogged filter could mean a lean condition, which is BAD

So let me get this straight, you change the following every 5000 kms, or ~3000miles (10k/6k if you're runnign syn):
Oil Filter
Oil
Fuel Filter
PCV Valve

Hmmm..

Why not change your plugs, plug wires, rotor/distributor cap (if you have one), air filter, breather filter (if you have one), tranny fluid/filter (heh ok I'm stretching it now). But you get my drift. You don't need to change your PCV or fuel filter every time you oil change. PCV either works, or doesn't work you can quickly TEST it every oil change, and change it if it's busted. If your PCV is getting clogged everytime you change your oil, there's more serious problems with your engine. Fuel filter is abit more iffy, I'm sure if you pump at a respectable station, you won't need to change more than once a year at most.

Posted by: plumers

On my next oil change, I think I'd just change my oil, oil filter, and fuel filter. I know I haven't change my fuel filter since I bought the car last year and I doubt the previous owner had chance to replace them. About the gasoline, I always fill up my car at this same Chevron gas station close to my home. I believe Chevron is pretty much a realiable oil company.

About the air filter, I'm thinking of changing it with K&N filter (not intake system). What do you think of this product???

Here's the link http://www.cardomain.com/item/KNN332133

Posted by: STi_Fanatic

First of:

I never trust places like JiffyLube to come near my car. Most of the guys that work there are fresh out of High School looking for somewhere to start and it sure as hell isn't going to be near my STi. I have seen too many "enthusiastically turned" filters in my day...meaning so tight they started to leak. I ALWAYS change oil myself or do it a dealership if I can get one of the off duty techs whom I trust to do it. (I work at a Nissan Store)

Secondly, about your other questions...fuel filters last a lot longer than you'd think, and you should only change it as specificed by your manufacturer, which is usually around once every 75k...miles.

Gas...I missed the question.

K&N works very well for most cars, hell almost all cars, assuming you take it easy when regreasing the filter...to much of the K&N oil on the filter can create damage.

Hope this helped.

Posted by: B0000rt

Quote:

Originally Posted by STi_Fanatic

Secondly, about your other questions...fuel filters last a lot longer than you'd think, and you should only change it as specificed by your manufacturer, which is usually around once every 75k...miles.

Maybe mplswaltar changes his oil every 75k miles

Posted by: Bonka

K&N filters give better airflow ("CFMS") when out of the box. After re-oiling, they've been shown to give worse airflow than a plain paper filter. K&N a while back had a comparison chart on their website which actually showed this but they removed it

I used a K&N panel filter in my car what a waste of money. A little more than half the filter was black and it'd been used for only 6,000kms. I'm back with the paper filter.

Personally if I switched back I'd buy a new one everytime instead of re-oiling it.

Posted by: WoNGsTeR

for ever 3k miles.. i change the oil and oil filter... the fuel filter along with my tune-up which is usually once a year.......

Posted by: Inclemental

Quote:

Originally Posted by MB CANADA

Under normal circumstances the driven distance between services is an average of approximately 19,000 km, however the FSS (Flexible Service
System) in your vehicle will advise you when servicing is required.

i dunno whether should do it every 3K or just follow the instruction...

Posted by: mplswaltar

Maybe i like to change/maintain my parts more often because i have a nicer car than you. Anyways i only change my fuel filter every 6 months. oil filter, oil and PCV valve every 3k miles. Usually I put in a new PCV when im working under the car because i have a crap load of them laying around. I re-oil my K&N filter every 5k miles or so.
b0000rt i change my oil less often than you make sweet love to a mexican donkey u effing child. Go grab a charms blow pop and shut your mouth

Posted by: B0000rt

So you like to change your parts/maintain your car more often because you like to waste money? Sure PCV, I dont' care, it's less than $5, and takes less than two seconds to change, but unnecessary. Don't try to argue with me saying that changing it every oil change is needed, and that they fail somewhere around 3k miles, because they do not. Maybe in a rare occurance, but nevertheless, rare.

About the fuel filter, you clearly said to us you changed it every oil change. Yet you go back on your word now and say every 6 months. Which is it?

And like I said, if you do those things every oil change, why not change your plugs while your at it? It only takes 10-15mins and you can do it while the oil change (Assuming you don't drive a transverse mounted pushrod V engine, as getting at the back 3 or 4 plugs takes forever)

Do note that with K&N drop in filters, sure you get less restriction at what cost? Less filteration capability. Which means more dust into the engine and shorter engine life. I stick to OEM AC Delco air filters, a tad more expensive over the long run, and less 'power', but if I really wanted more power, I wouldn't keep the stock airbox.

And thank you for realizing my name has zeros. I can do anything to my Mexican donkey all I want. It's none of your business.

Clearly you're the one with the childish attitude.

Posted by: plumers

Quote:

Originally Posted by STi_Fanatic

I never trust places like JiffyLube to come near my car. Most of the guys that work there are fresh out of High School looking for somewhere to start and it sure as hell isn't going to be near my STi.

Are you serious????? But I think you're right about that. This dude who usually takes care of my car at jiffylube, I can tell that he's around my age and he doesn't seem to me like he's doing his job seriously. I guess it's always safer and better to take it to dealer or DIY if you have some skills, unfortunately I don't.

How long does K&N drop ins lasts???
What I'm going to do if I get my filter dirty is just to replace it, not to oil them. So, if the filter lasts only 6K miles, then I think it's useless.

Posted by: bembol

www.knfilters.com

I had one before I got my AEM V2...I noticed my ride was smoother in the highway. How long they last/before you re-oil them depends where you live/dusty, new development, etc.

Going back to the oil change....really it's all up to YOU and how you DRIVE...!!!

I usually DIY between 5-7k/km...again if I "ripped" or drive her "hard" (reason why I switched to Synthetic...Castrol German 0W-30) I would change at 5k/km....!!! This is just me...it's $45 DIY job...not a BIG DEAL for me to do it early/more often.

Posted by: WoNGsTeR

sorry.. but whats DIY? lol... do it your self?...

Posted by: B0000rt

Yep, DIY is Do It Yourself

Posted by: plumers

Quote:

Originally Posted by WoNGsTeR

for ever 3k miles.. i change the oil and oil filter... the fuel filter along with my tune-up which is usually once a year.......

What does engine tune-up covers??

Posted by: WoNGsTeR

well that i dont do it myself.. i just goto my buddies shop... so dono exactly what he does.. he usually charges me 85cdn.. but he changes the fuel filter, makes sure everything is running smoothly and tunes it up...... i give him my spark plugs i want... and he puts them in... i prob could do it.. just lazy to learn.. lol...

Posted by: mau108

WoNGsTeR wow ever 3k miles you replace the fuel filter too ... soo not needed...you can push every 5 oil changes change the fuel filter...

What car you drive to need this kind of treatment?

Posted by: WoNGsTeR

Quote:

Originally Posted by mau108

WoNGsTeR wow ever 3k miles you replace the fuel filter too ... soo not needed...you can push every 5 oil changes change the fuel filter...
What car you drive to need this kind of treatment?

dude.. re-read my posting..

i replace my fuel filter everytime i do my tune-up which is once a year.

Posted by: mplswaltar

Full tune up is spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap/rotor oil/filter change, PCV valve change, tranny flush and fill, coolant flush and fill, Bleed clutch, bleed brakes, grease ball joints, re lub alot of the moving joints, fuel filter change, add cheveron fuel treatment.

I sometimes seafoam the car too. Rotate tires and adjust valve lash.

Posted by: mau108

I want to try seafoam aswell, but i heard it can sometimes cause damage aswell....

mplswalter: when doing a tranny flush, is it true they actually run higher then normal pressure tranny fluid through the system and then fill up?

All I do is empty, remove the bolt and clean off the magnet, and refill with honda fluid...

Since you work at a shop, would like your input.

Posted by: B0000rt

/\
Don't you buy the Gasket/filter set?

For GMs, you take off the whole pan, 20+ bolts (man it's a really messy job), let the fluid drain out, take off the filter, clean the pan gasket/magnet, throw in the new filter, gasket it up and bolt her back in and fluid it up

Posted by: mau108

Quote:

Originally Posted by B0000rt

/\
Don't you buy the Gasket/filter set?

For GMs, you take off the whole pan, 20+ bolts (man it's a really messy job), let the fluid drain out, take off the filter, clean the pan gasket/magnet, throw in the new filter, gasket it up and bolt her back in and fluid it up

nah for imports i believe its just the magnetic bolt. the pan and magnet in the pan is on domestics....

Posted by: mplswaltar

FOr a tranny flush, all u really do is drain the fluid out with both the drain bolt, and the filler bolt removed. after draining, clean bolts off, install new washers, and refill fluid. I then get in hte car without turning it on, and shift through all the gears a few times. I then drain again, and remove the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). Close up the drain bolt, but keep the filler bolt off. With the VSS removed you can pour tranny fluid directly through that, without having to jack the car up. Make sure the car is level.

When your filling up the fluid, fill it untill fluid starts to run out of the filler bolt hole. Torque it back to spec to take it for a spin.

Otherwise yea there is a method to pump MTF through the tranny to fully flush the fluid. But sometimes its not nessisary.

Posted by: mplswaltar

Seafoam works well if your engine has under 150k miles on it. You dont want to losen any seals that will create an oil leak. I usually get some spray seafoam and spray down my TB with the engine running. Heat is what cleans the carbon off.

Posted by: mau108

its freaky still, i dont think im ready to take the risk lol....

Ok ya regarding the tranny flush, thats all I doo, i dont even shift, i just drain, and fill through the top (I use those nozzles that hook up to the bottle and allow you to control the flow with a switch close to the top (the filler bolt for tranny fluid is pretty hard to get to with a bottle .