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Thread: swaping main board between two v9m

  1. #1
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    swaping main board between two v9m

    I cracked the inner screen on my verizon v9m(usc flash). The only replacement screen i could find was the one on ccn/gsm4 which is 200 bucks so i just got a whole new phone off ebay for the same price. So now my question is, if i just swap the main board( the one with the sd slot and mico usb) should it just work? I do not have access to a windows box so it would be a pain to flash the new phone to usc.

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    In theory... yes.

    I followed -> http://motomodders.net/Default.aspx?...487&view=topic to swap the board from the "bottom housing" between a V3C and V3Cpp without any problems.

    The result... The V3C shell with the V3Cpp board had the V3Cpp ESN, firmware and data... The V3Cpp shell with the V3C board had the V3C ESN, firmware and data... Both phones power on and work fine.

    (I did this because... While my V3Cpp was in perfect condition, it's ESN was banned since I hadn't used it as a Pre-Pay Phone, I picked up the V3C from a co-worker for $30 but its housing, screen and keyboard were beat up, and cloning ESN's is illegal, so I wanted to use as much of the V3Cpp parts as possible... )

    The closest thing I've seen to taking the V9M apart -> http://www.howardforums.com/showthre...hlight=learned
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  3. #3
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    So I am posting this in case any one else cracks their V9m screen. I was only able find the housing+keyboard+lcd as a unit. I found it cheaper to buy a donor phone on ebay. I have switched boards between two verizon V9ms and between a verizon and a sprint. Every thing works fine and it is really easy after you figure out how to do it, here are some pics I took with some instructions.

    First remove the chin pad with a small flat head screwdriver.


    Remove the screws from under the chin pad. Torx T-5.5.


    Remove the second two Torx T-5.5 screws.
    There are two tabs that need to be unclipped under the circles


    This is a close up of what they look like.


    Very carefully pry the sides of the case to release the tabs.
    If you have something thin and plastic use it, i scratched my case a little bit
    with this screwdriver


    Next you need to remove the flex cable connectors.
    Be very careful they are fragile and the board is worthless if they break.
    #2 comes strait up and off.
    #1 is a very small flex pcb cable zif socket. I could not figure out if the latched moved up or out and was afraid of breaking it. I was able to wiggle the old flex cable out and the new cable in without unlatching the connector.


    After the cables are off the board will fall right out.
    Interesting notes:
    The Front and inner LCDs are a part of the same module.
    Sprint's blueish V9m is much sexier then the plain black verizon.

  4. #4
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    I forgot to say, Thanks Mark V for the confidence building response.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trentgbs
    I forgot to say, Thanks Mark V for the confidence building response.
    Nice write up... Mind if I copy it (and the pix) and post it on my pages (crediting you of course, and linking this thread)??

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    Mark V, I would be honored to be on your pages.

    I have some more pics of the rest of the phone taken apart. Not very useful for a how to though cause it is so damn difficult. There was a ton of adhesive. I accidentally tore the flex pcb cable for the touch screen and cracked the inner screen even worse. So obviously I did not know what i was doing. Good thing it was just going to be an empty case anyways.

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    after thinking about it, add a warning on there about opening up the top flip, unless the screen is already broken or you are high/stupid/brave. I dont think you can get the lcd out without destroying it. At least with the amount of freaking adhesive that was on my phone. The outside screen cover is glued very well. The touch screen flex cable runs down both sides of the cover on the glue pad.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trentgbs
    after thinking about it, add a warning on there about opening up the top flip, unless the screen is already broken or you are high/stupid/brave. I dont think you can get the lcd out without destroying it. At least with the amount of freaking adhesive that was on my phone. The outside screen cover is glued very well. The touch screen flex cable runs down both sides of the cover on the glue pad.
    Am I correct in assuming that...

    As written, the contents of Post # 3 of this thread works for replacing the main board.

    BUT if you wish to do anything else, you need to be careful due to the use of adhesive which could result in component breakage upon dissassembly?

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    You got it!

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    I just found this while surfing the forums
    http://www.howardforums.com/showthread.php?t=1331797

    There is a link to a link for a V9(gsm) service manual.

    I REALLY wish i had this yesterday.

    It looks about 30% different under the hood, but it is the same design.

    The manual says to use hot air (blow dryer) to melt the glue and remove the outer screen cover.

    Mark V ---link to this on your site

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    Quote Originally Posted by trentgbs
    after thinking about it, add a warning on there about opening up the top flip, unless the screen is already broken or you are high/stupid/brave. I dont think you can get the lcd out without destroying it. At least with the amount of freaking adhesive that was on my phone. The outside screen cover is glued very well. The touch screen flex cable runs down both sides of the cover on the glue pad.
    You might be able to soften the adhesive up a bit by baking it at 150-200 degrees for a while. I've seen this done a lot to get later model BMW Xenon headlights apart, so maybe it could work here...

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    Quote Originally Posted by terminx
    You might be able to soften the adhesive up a bit by baking it at 150-200 degrees for a while. I've seen this done a lot to get later model BMW Xenon headlights apart, so maybe it could work here...
    Yea that would more then likely work. I've done it to headlights when doing a conversion from regular bulbs to putting a HID kit in them. The simplest way to get the cover of is to back them and then slow pry he things apart. Only concern here would be the electronics getting baked specially the LCD I don't know how it would affect that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by terminx
    You might be able to soften the adhesive up a bit by baking it at 150-200 degrees for a while. I've seen this done a lot to get later model BMW Xenon headlights apart, so maybe it could work here...
    The V9M service manual in the link provided by trentgbs does mention using 400 degree heat at various points...

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    Quote Originally Posted by trentgbs
    Mark V, I would be honored to be on your pages...
    Ok, finally got some time... so its being uploaded now...

    see -> http://mark.cdmaforums.com/V9M-MainBoard.htm

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